Final Day: Miami, Florida to Home, USA

Well, this will be my last blog entry.  A number of people have sent emails thanking me for the blog, wishing me well, and I truly appreciate those sentiments.  I started the blog for two reasons, one, to serve as personal diary and two, if I were to go missing, there would be a bread crumb trail for friends and family to locate what was left of me.  It was a pleasant surprise when it started being read around the world.  I am happy that people found it interesting enough to pass around the link and follow along.  

Well, it was one hell of a trip.  Over 12,000 miles (almost 20,000 km) and 14 countries.  I thoroughly enjoyed myself, and satiated this urge that has been gnawing in me for the past decade or so. I knew very little about South America before I left, and now I feel as though I understand the continent, and all it has to offer a bit better.  Outside of visa requirements and how to get around the Darrien Gap, I did very little research before I left, and that was by design.  I wanted to be able to experience the trip without preconceived notions, without prejudice.  As such, I did not plan a route, and I rarely knew where I was going until the night before.  This approach provided a new experience everyday and some unique surprises.

I met some of the nicest people during my travel's.  There are a number of adventure motorcyclists completing longer and much more impressive trips than myself. One individual I met has been on the road for over three years, visiting most every country on the planet. Others have spent almost a year touring South America alone.  A couple of guys were driving from the northern to the southern arctic circle. Large groups were on a two week guided escape from their daily grind.   All were very excited to talk about their adventures, and share their experiences. As my trip comes to an end, I wish those who are still on the road, and those just leaving on their adventures, the best of luck. Safe travels.

Final Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 338 miles (545 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 12,260 miles (19,774 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 14

Total Countries Visited: 14

Day 100: Buenos Aires, Argentina to MIami, USA

The flight from Argentina was uneventful.  Connected through Mexico City, which is a pain as they make you go completely though customs, out of the terminal, and back in again.  The processing took 2-hours.  I was on a free ticket, so I cannot complain too much, but I think I would avoid connecting through Mexico City in the future.

Arrived in Miami, and after about two hours of phone calls and texts, I found my motorcycle on the other side of thew airport, in an uncleared holding warehouse.  I took my paperwork to US Customs, and as luck would have it, today is Columbus Day and customs was closed.  Seriously?  Columbus Day? Unfortunately, I will not be able to get my bike until the morning, so I will be one more night on the road.  

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 14

Total Countries Visited: 14

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 38

Day 99: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Today is my last day in South America, and there could not be better weather.  Walked down to the center of the City and there is a massive festival going on.  La Gastronomica del la Parrilla or "grilled meat competition."  Such genius in its simplicity.  Not sure how it could be improved upon, unless of course they changed the festival to "La Gastronomica del la Parrilla y Motocicletas Gratis," which would be "grilled meat competition and free motorcycles."

I fly out just before midnight, and arrive in Miami around 1:30 pm.  Then the final leg to home, via Daytona Beach, then my trip back to reality.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 14

Total Countries Visited: 14

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 98: Montevideo, Uruguay to Buenos Aires, Argentina

How the bike was loaded for the trip.  

48L Pannier (Givi Outback Series):

• 5 T-shirts
• 1 golf shirt
• 5 pair underwear
• 5 pair socks
• 2 pair shorts
• 2 pair lightweight climbing pants (gusseted crotch)
• 2 thermal tops
• 1 thermal bottom
• 1 swim suit
• Prescription meds
• Computer
• Kindle

37L Pannier (Givi Outback Series):

• Waterproof wind breaker
• Electronics (extension cords, blue tooth speaker, adapters, etc.)
• Hygienic supplies (shampoo, toothpaste, etc.)
• Waterproof riding pants
• 1 pair running shoes
• Regular meds (Imodium, cold relief tablets, aspirin, etc)
• Document folder (orig. title, registration, international drivers license, passport, country specific paperwork, copies of everything, etc.)
• Gloves, 2 pair, winter and summer

Tank Bag

• Sunscreen
• Spare sunglasses
• Eyeglasses
• Spare sat-nav
• Power bricks (2)
• Snacks

40L Waterproof Bag (emergency kit in case of breakdown):

• Tent (Never used, thank god)
• Sleeping Bag (used in the mountains, some hotels have no heat)
• Inflatable mat (never used)

25L Top Case (Pelican): Repair Materials

• Tool Kit
• Spare Inner tubes (BMW has tubeless tires, but the tire bead cannot be set in the field, tube nullifies that requirement)
• Puncture repair kit
• Mini air compressor
• Spare gym bag
• Packing tape
• Jump start battery and cables

Under the Seat:

• 2-weeks prescription meds (emergency backup)
• Spare keys for the panniers
• Spare ignition key (hidden on the frame)

Day 97: Montevideo, Uruguay

Arrived in Uruguay last night.  Pretty city.  Went for a walk today, but it has been pouring all day long, so I came in after a couple of hours.  Managed to make it to the waterfront, the park, and the Harley Davidson dealership for a t-shirt.  Rain is supposed to let up  in a bit so I will go out and grab some dinner and check things out for a couple of hours.

Montevideo, Uruguay

The bike has landed in Miami and sitting in the United Airlines Cargo warehouse at the airport.   I have felt kind of naked without it these past few days.   I hope it showed in one piece.  I will arrive on Monday, walk over, reassemble everything I took apart for shipping, and off I will go.  

I was walking down the street last night and came across the worst store name ever.  They sell upscale women's fashions, and if your wondering, this is not a lost in translation situation, the name translates to English exactly the same.  

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 13

Total Countries Visited: 14

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 96: Buenos Aires, Argentina to Montevideo, Uruguay

My Motorcycle Flight Track, Source: United Airlines

The dashed line above indicates the proposed flight plan for the plane carrying my bike, MIA is Miami International Airport, the bike's intended destination, and the background image is Hurricane Mathew, the strongest storm to hit the US in a decade,  I think it is safe to say that my bike will not be flying today.

Projected Flight Track, Hurricane Mathew, Source: NOAA

Here is the Hurricane's projected track.  If the projection holds, there will be a very small window that I will be able to squeeze through.  Should be an interesting couple of days.  

Down here, this afternoon I will be jumping the high speed boat to Montevideo, Uruguay.  Check out the city and see what it's all about.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 13

Total Countries Visited: 14

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 95: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Presidential Palace, Buenos Aires

Paperwork for the bike shipment is complete, total cost ended up being $1,690.  The bike is scheduled to leave tomorrow afternoon, so it should be ready for pick up when I arrive on Monday. Then I will complete my last leg of the trip.  

I head to Uruguay tomorrow afternoon. In the absence of the bike, I will be going by boat. This will be my 14th and final country of the trip,  The only country that I missed on my plan was Chile.  Kind of bummed about it, but c'est la vie.  

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 94: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Today was "drop the bike off at the airport" day.  The process was actually quite efficient, which is very out of character for South America.  I was in and out in under two hours, and they were processing another bike to Houston during the same time period.  I must admit, it was a bit sad watching the bike go on the pallet,  I will be without the bike until I fly on the 9th.  Tomorrow I pay the bill, and then I am free to wander around for a while.  Contemplating a trip to Uruguay.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 20 miles (32 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,922 miles (19,229 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 93: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Port of Buenos Aires

Started processing my motorcycle for its flight back to the United States.  Met with DakarMotos and they will be preparing all of the paperwork and shipping documentation.  The bike is due at the airport tomorrow morning, and will fly with United Airlines, hopefully, on October 7th and arrive in Miami on Oct 9th. The bike flies space available as a second priority to perishable items (ie, fruits, vegetable, etc.). as the fruit can rot, and the bike cannot.  To hedge my schedule, l be arriving in Miami on October 10th via Mexico Airlines (Delta code share), as it is much cheaper to stay here than in the US in case the bike is delayed. Another issue at hand are the inevitable delays to previous cargo shipments that will need to be absorbed as a result of Hurricane Mathew.  It will all work out I'm sure.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 30 miles (48 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,902 miles (19,954 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 92: Buenos Aires, Argentina

Spent the day in Buenos Aires, just wandering around and checking the place out.  They have a beautiful park/nature preserve along the waterfront.  Again, I am amazed at what a wonderful job they did planning this City.  There are over 13 million inhabitants, and there is very little difficulty getting around.  The roads, buses, trains, and subways are all very accessible.  The main promenade is 15 lanes wide, but since it is broken by parks, bus lanes and an occasional building, there is not a feeling of being overwhelmed by asphalt.  

Main Promenade

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,872 miles (19,906 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 91: Rosario, Argentina to Buenos Aires, Argentina

Rolled into Buenos Aires around 1:00 pm today.  I was quite surprised with what I saw,  the City is absolutely gorgeous.  Very clean, well maintained, and the City planners that laid out Buenos Aires did an absolutely phenomenal job.  The streets are very efficient, bus lines and subways are centrally located, and there is adequate walking space without feeling lost in the sidewalk. From what I have seen so far, this City rivals Madrid as one of the nicest cities in the world.  I will be here for a few days and will have plenty of time to explore.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 191 miles (308 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,872 miles (19,906 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 90: Cordoba, Argentina to Rosario, Argentina

Entre Rios, Rosario, Argentina

Another big day in the saddle.  All "interstate" driving again, though very windy and quite cold today. It looks and feels like I am back in the States, same signage, road construction and road layout.  The primary issue is that gas stations are difficult to find. There are no stations at the entrance/exit ramps, one has to get off the interstate and venture into nearby towns to buy gas.  

I completed my day in Rosario, Argentina, home of Lionel Messi, the top rated footballer in the world and perennial tax cheat (really Lionel, you made 40 million USD last year and you can't afford to pay your taxes).  The town, is clean, bright, beautiful and situated along the waterline.  

Tomorrow a three-hour run to Buenos Aires.  

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 251 miles (405 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,681 miles (19,598 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  21/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 89: Cordoba, Argentina

Spent the day relaxing and wandering around this wonderful City.  It is very upscale when compared to some of the previous cities I have been wandering though as of late.  They speak a different dialect of Spanish here, called Castilian.  I was just getting to the point where I could converse in Spanish, and now a plethora of new words are creeping into the vernacular, or to be more accurate, I am creeping into theirs.  Regardless. I am excited to see this level of society here, modern, educated, first world, and very very interesting.  Seems like a time travel from just two days ago when I was in the Andes and people had no heat, windows, running water, etc.  Amazing what a well formed, non-corrupt, government is capable of achieving.

Today's Leg: 0 miles (0 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,430 miles (19,193 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  17/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 88: San Miguel de Tucman, Argentina to Cordoba, Argentina

Long haul today, second longest of the trip.  Central Argentina is a quite a bit like Central Florida. Long straight two-lane highways running through the middle of nowhere, it makes for boring, but very easy riding.

I pulled in to Cordoba about 2:00 pm and the town is very quaint.  I would best describe it as being very similar to a couple of neighborhoods in Manhattan, older buildings, but kept up nicely. with the infrastructure modernized without loosing its charm. After six riding days in a row, the last two being very long, I will be taking a day here to rest before the final push to Buenos Aires. Cordoba looks like a nice place to explore, and I am looking forward to it.

Today's Leg: 351 miles (566 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,430 miles (19,193 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  17/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 87: Tilcara, Argentina to San Miguel de Tucman, Argentina

El Diablo Grande, Re-Utilized Railroad Trestle (Tilcara)

Last picture of the third world.  Today.s trip was quicker than anticipated.  The roads are built to first world standards here in Argentina, passing lanes, guard rails, and upkeep are all standard.  Pulled into San Miguel de Tucman around 1:00 pm and was greeted by residential neighborhoods, front lawns, and modern construction. I could be in North America, Europe, South Africa or any other first world area.  Mixed emotions, I am glad to see the modern world again, but I miss the rawness that was second and third world South America. 

There is allot of time to think while on a motorcycle for hours on end, and the thoughts that pass through my mind are paradoxical.  Thoughts like, what if I had been born here, what would my life be like?  Would it be better or worse? The families seem much more nuclear, generation upon generation living together.  Again, better or worse, I am not sure. Never traveling more than a 100 miles form where I was born.. better or worse?  No X-boxes or other trappings, better or worse?  Not sure.   This is my first extended motorcycle trip, and I must admit, it is a wonderful way to travel.  One gets to see and taste so much more than if by car, bus or plane.  It can be brutal at times. rain, snow, lonely, dusty, 50 mph wind gusts, being chilled to the bone, but most of the time it is just an absolute joy, a bit of sensory overload.  

Tomorrow I head to Cordoba, then on to Buenos Aires and Uruguay.  Still have time left.  

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 264 miles (426 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 11,079 miles (18,627 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  16/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 34

Day 86: Tupiza, Bolivia to Tilcara, Argentina

Today was more fun in the beautiful canyons of Bolivia and Argentina.  The border crossing was an easy one, about 20 minutes in total.  Pulled into the small little town of Tilcara, Argentina around 2:00 pm in the afternoon.  Very beautiful area, nestled in the foot hills of the Andes.  This should be the second to last day of my mountain riding for a while.  Both my bike and I are loving the increased oxygen and octane levels.

 

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 188 miles (303 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 10,815 miles (18,201 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 12

Total Countries Visited: 13

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  16/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 32

Day 85: Potosi, Bolivia to Tupiza, Bolivia

Another beautiful ride through the Bolivia today.  Dropped down to about 4,000 feet today, and I can run up a flight of steps without getting dizzy, which is a nice thing.  Additionally, I am now below the timberline, which means greenery again.  Makes the country look even more beautiful.

Tupiza Bolivia

Rolled into Tupiza today around 12:30 pm.  The city reminds me of some of the smaller and older towns of Colorado, which may be an indicator as to why Butch and Sundance settled here.  Just to the west of the city, past the garbage dump, are the Canyon del Diablo and the Canyon del Inca, both very beautiful.  The bike was a little difficult to get back there as the floor of the canyon is stream bed and a bit squishy for a 500lb bike.

Canyon del Diablo

Canyon del Inca

Tomorrow I head out of Bolivia and into Argentina.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 168 miles (271 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 10,627 miles (17,898 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 11

Total Countries Visited: 12

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  16/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 32

Day 84: Oruru, Bolivia to Potosi, Bolivia

Bolivia had some redemption today.  I changed routes...again. this time back to Potosi.  The first half of the trip was just long open plains, about 90 miles.  I came to a smallish village and they had gasoline, hooray.  I took off out of the village, and into the mountains and into some of the most stunning scenery thus far on this trip.  The earth became blood red and the road started skirting an enormous canyon,  I became lost in the grandeur.

I rolled into Potosi, the highest city in the world, around 2:00 pm this afternoon, Took a walk around the very hilly city.  Steps, steps and more steps.  To be honest, I am looking forward to being at a lower altitude soon.  The lack of oxygen and the resultant huffing and puffing is getting old.   The historic portion of the city is quite enchanting, but as with most cities in this part of the world, it is surrounded by poverty and squaller.

Tomorrow, my last night in Bolivia, will be spent in Tupiza, the final resting place of Butch Cassidy and the Sundance Kid.  Thats not why I am staying there, just a good queue spot for the Argentine/Bolivia border.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 204 miles (329 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 10,459 miles (17,316 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 11

Total Countries Visited: 12

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  16/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 32

Day 83: La Paz, Bolivia to Oruru, Bolivia

Headed down to Oruru today.  The gas situation seems to be somewhat OK in the big cities, and a bit on the edges, but the stations along the way appear to be vacant or closed.  I passed no tankers, or much of anything else on the road today, so I do not see things improving quickly.   Oruru has most of the stations open, but some had quite long lines.  I have enough gas (tank and auxiliary) to make it to Chile, and that is my current plan.  I would of liked to see Uyuni, but with nothing more than 100 miles of dirt roads and small towns on my route there, I am sure they have not been replenished with gas at this time.   It will be a long  run out to Iquique, Chile, but the town looks quite modern and European, which will be very nice for a change of pace.

Trip Summary

Today's Leg: 146 miles (236 km)

Total Distance Traveled: 10,255 miles (16,987 km)

Total Borders Crossed: 11

Total Countries Visited: 12

Total Times Stopped by the Police/Tickets Issued:  16/0

Shaken Down by the Police/Total Times Paid: 5/1

Visits to a Holding Cell: 1

Countries Following this Blog: 32